Glossary of Sewing terms

There are hundreds of sewing terms that can be really overwhelming if you are new to sewing.
Here we cover the basic terms that you are bound to come across and need to know to navigate the world of PDF Patterns.

Backstitch

is done by sewing backward and forward at the beginning and end of a seam, on top of the seam stitches, to prevent the stitching from coming undone.


Basting stitch

a loose temporary sewing stitch to hold layers of fabric together.


Bias facing

is a finish in which bias tape is sewn onto the raw edge, then folded over to the wrong side (so that it's invisible from the outside) and sewn in place.


Binding or bias tape

is a narrow strip of fabric. Is a trim or edging formed by sewing a narrow strip of folded fabric. It’s usually attached to the edge of a piece of fabric.


Clip

Clipping just means cutting a short line into the fabric but making sure not to cut any sewing. Generally rounded edges are clipped so that they lie flatter.
So if a pattern says, ‘clip curves’ it just means cut a few short lines in the seam allowance on the curve.


Darts

Darts are generally triangle or diamond shapes that are sewn to give a garment more shape. Some common places for darts are the bust, back and waist.
Darts are generally not needed on knit / stretchy fabric but will be needed on woven / non-stretchy fabric to help it curve to the body.
If a pattern has marked darts do not cut them out! Just mark them on your fabric with chalk or pins.

Edge stitch

is the line of stitches used to neaten an edge, a seam or to stitch around the edge of a facing to keep the edge nice and flat and looking professional. The stitching distance is usually 1/8 inch (3mm) from the edge.


Fusible interfacing

is a material that is attached to a fabric by heat to add stiffness to the fabric. Interfacing is often used to stiffen cuffs and collars on shirts and to reinforce buttonholes. It will give the garment shape and support in detailed areas.


Fold

Lots of pattern pieces will have a fold line marked. This means the fabric needs to be folded, with the folded edge on that line before it is cut out.
This ensure that the two sides of the piece will by symmetrical and involves half the cutting

DON’T CUT ALONG A FOLD LINE


Gather

Gathering is a sewing technique for shortening the length of a fabric so that the longer piece can be attached to a shorter piece. This makes longer bits of fabric shorter by making lots of little pleats. To gather you can sew a temporary stitch and leave long thread tails and then pull on one of the tails and slide the fabric up until it is gathered to the right length.


Hand stitch

to stitch or sew by hand.


Lapel

the part on each side of a coat or jacket immediately below the collar which is folded back on either side of the front opening.


Knit

Knit fabric is stretchy fabric. Like t-shirt material or leggings etc. If its stretchy is probably knit.

Notch
This is a small mark made on the pattern to ensure that one pattern piece will match up to the pattern next to it. They make sure that the two pieces of fabric will come together correctly when sewn.


Notions

is a sewing term for extra things or accessories. Buttons, zips, elastic etc are all notions.


Overlock / Serger

A special type of sewing machine that makes the edges of the fabric neat and is good for sewing knit fabrics as it stretches well. Overlocking prevents the edges from fraying.


Pin

Sewing pins are used to hold fabric together prior to sewing. They temporarily hold the fabric in place when attaching and cutting patterns, or while sewing. They are best to use with a machine because they are easy to remove quickly as you sew.


Piping

is a narrow strip of fabric. Is a trim or edging formed by sewing a narrow strip of folded fabric. It’s usually attached to the edge of a piece of fabric.


Pivot point

is a point where the stitching direction changes at the corner or another angled point in the stitching line. To pivot, stop with the needle down in the fabric when you arrive at the pivot point, and lift the presser foot. Then rotate, or pivot, to the new stitching position, lower the presser foot, and continue stitching.

Pleat

is a permanent fold that is made in the cloth by folding one part over the other and sewing across the top end of the fold. It adds volume and gives shape where needed. Pleats can be functional or purely decorative. You will also find pleats on home decor items such as the corners of couches and at the tops of curtains.

Right Side

The Right Side of the fabric is the side you want on the outside, the prettier side / the correct side.
When sewing, you will almost always sew things with ‘right sides together’ / ‘right sides facing’. This means that the pretty sides are touching, and the ugly sides are visible. When you then sew this, it will open out, so the right sides are smooth and the wrong sides have the visible sewing line.


 Seam

A seam is the line where two pieces of fabric a joined together. E.g. at the top of the shoulder on a t-shirt there will be a shoulder seam.


Seam Allowance

is the distance from the raw edge of the fabric to the sewing line.


Sleeve placket

is an opening at the end of a sleeve that allows your hand to fit through a narrow space easily. It’s most often seen on shirts or blouses and is generally finished with a cuff.


Stay Stitch

means to sew a row of stitches on a single piece of fabric to help it keep its shape. It's useful on curved or diagonal edges that may otherwise stretch out during the sewing process.


Straight Stitch

The most commonly sewn stitch. The ‘regular’ stitch on your sewing machine.


Tension

The tension is how much thread the machine allows through at each time. To create nice, even and uniform stitches you need the right tension.
If the tension is right, then you shouldn’t be able to see the bobbin colour on one side of the fabric and equally you shouldn’t be able to see the thread colour on one side of the fabric.


Topstitch

Topstitching generally means sewing so the stitching is visible. It often helps make something look neater or keep it in place.


Understitch

is a line of stitches that are sewn close to the edge of a facing to keep it from rolling toward the outside.


 Woven

Woven fabric is non-stretch fabric and it is created by weaving yarns. Examples of popular woven fabrics are chiffon, crepe, denim, linen, satin and silk.


 Wrong Side

The opposite of Right side!
The side you don’t want to see at the end – the inside of the fabric.


Yoke

is shaped piece of fabric used as a part of a garment which adds a bit of a decoration to the clothes. Typically seen on the front and back of a men’s shirt.


Zig-Zag

Is a stitch that looks like a zigzag. Zig-zag is the most common stitch for stretchy fabrics. It will stretch with the fabric whereas a straight stitch will not - a straight stitch will probably snap if you try and stretch it.